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Thoughts
on watering potatoes

Is
this happening to you? We see this on a range of different
soil types where the application rate of the irrigator is
too high for the infiltration of the soil. You will only know
if you measure. In extreme cases when all the water runs off
the ridge and there are no roots in the valley it can happen
that the irrigation does no good at all. But, in most cases
this happens only to a degree - you need to know and then
see what can be done about it. Speak to a good adviser if
you need some help.
Remember:For
every millimetre of water use lost from potential, you could
be losing .24 t\ha! We have many examples, even in a 'wet'
year like 2000, of crops using 50mm less water than they could.
This equates to 12 t\ha. Does this explain why some growers
are getting 70-100 t\hacompared to the national average of
below 40 t\ha?
It
is suggested you read this next section as the whole success
of watering potatoes is down to understanding and knowing
when your soil is really full.
Filling
your soils after planting.
With
most water monitoring systems it is important to know when
a soil is full. We see many fields of potatoes that have poor
soil structure due to the de-clodding and planting activities.
This, we believe causes scab in soils that in some years have
no problem, as well as causing poor growth early in the season.
The normal practice is for growers to go over their crop with
15mms of irrigation to overcome these difficulties. Using
continuous monitoring equipment, we can see how much water
it takes to refill a soil.
However, many growers who do not have the luxury of such equipment,
do not know how much water is needed. (In 1996, after a dry
winter many soils needed 70mm to refill the soil to 50cm.
Not many growers were able to achieve this and hence had disappointing
crops. If you guesstimated a 30mm deficit, you would have
been 40mm out for the season!).
Potatoes
are usually grown in ridges and some years the ridges are
formed better than others.
The
tubers are planted and without doubt there is a deficit.
What is it and how do we find
it?
By this stage most growers know how they will irrigate and
most hope that nature will fill the soils before tuber initiation.
Depending on the market supplied, skin finish and scab are
not important to some growers, but for the packing trade,
good scab control is vital.Some soils never get scab while
others get scab in most seasons. It is complicated, but generally
maintaining a high soil moisture content in the ridge will
solve most of the problems. The majority of problems are caused
by water not behaving as expected.
Is
this happening to you?
Recently,
an experiment was conducted in filling a heavy soil after
planting potatoes. Moisture readings were taken at multiple
depths. Then the tubes were watered with a watering can and
more readings taken. The agronomist who did the work was 'amazed'
at how long it took and how much water was needed.
|
Time
|
10cm |
20cm |
30cm |
40cm |
50cm |
60cm |
0
-30cm
|
| 12.48 |
4.52 |
16.24 |
28.16 |
36.75 |
27.67 |
28.89 |
48.92
|
| 13.43 |
15.99 |
39.73 |
32.67 |
37.71 |
34.17 |
35.63 |
88.39
|
| 13.58 |
23.61 |
40.81 |
31.41 |
36.09 |
30.70 |
35.88 |
95.83
|
| 14.28 |
29.35 |
38.97 |
31.87 |
36.95 |
31.61 |
35.59 |
100.19
|
The
conclusions are that it took 1.5 hours to refill the soil
by 51mm! No wonder the 'average' grower does not refill his
soil and hence has poor crops. (Probably much more water was
applied to achieve this.)
You
do need good equipment that is agronomically accurate to be
able to see this. See Monitoring
section.
Watering
crops correctly and accurately is becoming more and more important
as we have to be aware of not only increasing yields, but
improving quality, reducing wastage of water and hence fertilisers
and all the 'green' issues of the day.
Farming
is under considerable pressure, not only in the UK, but throughout
the world. With increased understanding we are able to help
achieve all of these issues, because it is only by increasing
'profit' that farmers will survive. Therefore, if a grower
can increase yield and quality by 10%, he could double his
profit per acre.
Once
the crop starts to grow the roots grow deeper and more water
becomes available to the crop. For example, if a soil has
25% moisture at all depths down to 50cm, then there is 75mm
of water when full in the top 30cm. Of this about half - 37mm
is easily available to the crop. So watering with 25mm every
5/6/7 days can do a very good job, if the water goes into
the ridge as we would like. However, in many soils much of
the water runs into the valley as shown in the picture at
the top of this page, not where the plant's roots would like
it for maximum water use and growth!
However,
with rooting down to 50cm the total water content increases
to 125mm, of which the plant can use 65mm easily. If you delay
watering until the plant reaches a stress level and then water
with 25mm (this may be the maximum you feel that your soil
can cope with, but do you know this?) then even after watering
you will have a 40mm deficit. With strategically placed soil
moisture sensors, we can see that the water applied only wets
the top 20cm and that because the roots have run out below
this, the plant can still be under serious stress. It may
be that your crop would like to be using 5 to 6mm per day,
but it can only get 3mm per day. This may give a reduction
in yield, from potential, of .5 to.75 tons per hectare per
day.
See
graph illustrating this point in Agronomy 2
So,
should you water earlier and keep the deficit smaller, or
water later, but accept potential reduced yield? The longer
you delay watering means you have more chance of rain doing
the job for you. Also, there is the problem of wet soil round
the tubers, which can cause some serious lenticel problems.
Depending on your market, this may or may not be a problem.
Ultimately,
drip solves a lot of these problems. The soil can be allowed
to supply the water needed until it reaches the 'refill' point
and then it is brought up to 'full' or thereabouts.By leaving
well alone for as long as possible it means the tubers are
only sitting wet for small periods at a time.
But,
always try different things and monitor them so that you know
which is best and repeatable.
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